James Fenton wrote
in “The Atlantic” in a review of Laird M. Easton’s “Journey
to the Abyss :The Diaries of Count Harry Kessler 1880-1918” (Vintage
edition,2013) “Count Harry Kessler became, through his experiences
and through the anguished searching of his spirit, something close to
a representative man. He seeks out great artists and gives us
memorable portraits of Verlaine in old age, of Degas and Renoir, of
Rodin and Maillol, of Rilke and Hofmannsthal, of Cosima Wagner, of
Richard Strauss, of Diaghilev and Nijinsky, and of other great
dancers and theatrical figures of the age. The cast list alone makes
this an amazing diary.”
Kessler started his
diaries at age twelve and wrote them religiously until his death at
69. But to me he is important because he enticed Henry van der Velde
to come to Weimar. And I tasted his enthusiastic globe-trotting by
seeing how he reacted to the America I know best! Here goes:
San Francisco, March
25, 1892. (He was 24.) To the Leland Stanford University in Menlo.It
was built by Senator Stanford in the memory of his son, who died
young and he bequeathed it 20 million dollars…This is one of the
most beautiful and most original architectural monuments that I have
seened in the United States, a completely unique, American
architecture,with a glimmer of romantic antiquity, without the
all-too-obvious intention of being romantically antique.” P.75. I
agree with his canny analysis of an architect being simultaneously
original and rooted in history.”( I gave my first university
lecture there on Newer Media and Humanism in 1962, aged 35!)
New York City,
January 16, 1892.”In the evening dined at the Degeners’ with
young people, almost all from German fathers and mothers. They all
speak German, with an accent, and among themselves they speak
English. Before and after Degeners’attended a political dinner of
the Reform Club at the Sherrys’. Met Springer, Williams, and other
leaders of the Democratic Party. When I returned, an “Honorable
So-and-so” from Georgia was speaking about the tariff issue with so
much passion that the champagne glasses were shaking. When someone
says something that hits a chord, they all stand up and shout for
minutes, shaking their napkins. Certainly the Americans are,of all
the people I know, the ones with the best lungs. I brought up the
deficient street cleaning, repair of the pavement, etc. Why aren’t
the people responsible thrown out? Everyone is too busy to bother
about something like that, that’s why they let it happen, and the
same thing is true of politics. That’s why politics in the hands of
crooks who turn it into a business and bums and idlers who have
nothing better to do.” P.53. Heh, could be a Tea Party blast last
night. Kessler is canny.
New York. February
15, 1892. Monday. To Bedloe’s Island to climb the Statue of
Liberty.One of those fresh warm spring days that race through your
blood like champagne. The sight of the vast sea of houses and the
blue hills of New Jersey, encircling the wide glittering bay, was
inexpressibly beautiful, and again the ships, the ferries, the sails
,all life, all activity, all force. Why are there so few such moments
in life in which you feel as if you must shout and laugh due to the
joy of existence.”P.59. Heh, Count Kessler, been there, done that,
again and again on the Staten Island ferry to Manhattan, only twice
on the bow of the Queen Mary and S.S. France, returning me and my
family from teaching in London! But I recognize the thrills. They
never fall. And I’m reminded that my mother was about to be born in
Ausable, Michigan while the Count was counting his happy experiences.
Washington, January
30, 1892. Saturday. “Bad weather. In the morning to the Osborns.
Then to the “shaking hands” with the president. Everyone who
wants can come to the White House at one o’clock and shake the
hands of the president. This ceremony takes place in a large hall in
the west wing of the building. Today due to the bad weather whole
families with the small children came in with wet raincoats and
dripping umbrellas, forming long zig zag lines on the bright yellow
Smyrna carpet. Men from the West, with large cowboy hats; fat store
owners, their fleshy fingers covered in rings; little middle-class
girls giggling in the corners of the large hall; an assembly such as
one generally sees at a bus station. As the president entered, they
all rushed in his direction and surrounded him. (Benjamin Harrison,
(1833-1901), the twenty-third president of the United States.) Then
everyone passed and gave him their hand.The president, a short,
inconspicuous man with a full gray beard, returned the handshake with
an indifferent demeanor. Frequently he said, "I am very glad to see
you.” In a half hour the celebration is over. You sense here what
it means, in a demagogic sense, to be the first servant of one’s
people.” P.57. Egalitarianism at its lowest expression!
“After
dinner went to Arlington Heights. You pass through Georgetown:
countless Negro shanties out of which a black child’s face with
large white eyes stare. On the streez´ts were more blacks than
whites, an indescribably a ragged, dirty pack.” Once a Count,
always a count. You can count on it. The Civil War had not really
happened. And so it goes, the kind of irresistible book suited for
bed table or klo. Kessler makes diaries a major genre. And you have
830 more pages to relish. Around the globe with the perceptive
Kessler. And when you exhaust the diaries (1880-1918) read Laird M.
Easton, The Red Count: The Life and Letters of Harry Kessler,
Amazon.de $41.94. And the rest of the diaries (1918-1937) under way!